Today I have visited St. Albans Cathedral in the picturesque City of St. Albans in the County of Hertfordshire. The official title of the Cathedral is ‘The Cathedral and Abbey Church of St Alban’, though many people simply refer to it as 'The Cathedral'.
While this fine and ancient Cathedral physically began being constructed in the year 1077, it roots can be found much deeper in England’s history. The Cathedral was named after Alban, a prominant Romano-British citizen who lived in the town of Verulamium (the Roman name for what is now St. Albans) towards the end of the 3rd Century. Alban gave shelter to a travelling Christian Priest, Amphibalus, who converted Alban to Christianity from Roman paganism. As a Christian, Amphibalus was a fugitive hiding from Roman persecution.
During a period of Christian persecution by the Roman Emperor, troops were sent to hunt down and arrest Christian Priests. When the troops came to Verulamium, Alban bravely swapped his clothes with Amphibalus, allowing him to escape to safety and Alban was arrested in his place.
Alban was taken before a magistrate and told to make an offering to the Pagan gods. Alban refused and declared his loyalty and faith in God by saying: “I worship and adore the true and living God who created all things"
This brave declaration in a world hostile to Christians could only mean a death sentence to Alban.
Alban was taken from the town and taken to a hill where he was beheaded. The site of the Cathedral is reputed to be that hill. It was this act of early Christian martyrdom that led to the Alban becoming a saint and in turn, an Abbey being built in his honour. Ever since the site has been a site of Christian Pilgrimage. St. Alban was the first English Christian martyr.
As with all historical events, it is an inevitability that through the centuries things get added to the story. Early retelling of the events include the eyes of the executioner popping out of his head upon beheading Alban. Others state that the head of Alban rolled down the hill, and when it stopped, at that very point a spring of water burst out of the ground. Whatever happened on that day has now been lost in history, but what we do know to be true is that an Abbey was built in the name of St. Alban.
On the currant site a much earlier Saxon Benedictine Monastery was founded in c.793AD until such a time when construction began to build the currant building in 1077.
One of the views I love the most in this Cathedral is the High Altar screen. This fine example of medieval architecture very proudly displays all of the Saints in its niches. It was constructed in 1484 and replaces an earlier, and much lower screen. The historically minded among you may quite correctly ask “How did this survive the Reformation?” - Well…it did not.
In 1547 the High Altar, along with every other Catholic symbol in the church was destroyed. If you take a wander through most other Churches and Cathedrals that were in existence at that time, you will often see empty niches and plinths where statues of Saints once stood. It was only in the 1890’s under steam of Lord Aldenham was the High Alter Screen restored back to how we see it today after years of neglect.
Directly behind the High Altar Screen we find the shrine of St. Alban. This was constructed in 1308 and is still to this very day used as the focus of pilgrimages to this holy site. The shrine originally contained the bones of St. Alban, however the shrine, just like the Altar screen, was destroyed during the reformation and smashed into 2000 pieces and the bones were lost too. The shrine itself was restored in 1993 from its original pieces back to its former glory. In 2002 the Abbey was gifted one of the Relics of St Alban - his shoulder bone - by the Church of St Pantaleon in Cologne, Germany.
You will see next to the shrine a large Oak Screen. This is in fact the watching loft, where monks and townspeople would stand guard over the shrine, making sure theives did not attempt to steal any of money left by pilgrims or indeed any of the jewels which decorated the original reliquary.
Located in the Nave in the West End of the Cathedral are some of the finest surviving examples of Medieval religious wall paintings in England. The paintings on the West Face of the pillars all depict the death of Christ on the Cross. This was because in the 13th Century, each one of these pillars was an Altar and the paintings provided a suitable backdrop. On the South face of these pillars you can see wall paintings of the Saints. Alas, as is the story with much of this Abbey, the Saints were de-faced during the Reformation.
Below area details photos of the Nave Painting:
Next on our Journey we come to the Choir Stalls. During the Victorian period, the United Kingdom went through a revival of Gothic Architecture. During this period the Choir Stalls were re-fitted in the High Victorian style. In 1870 extensive restoration was carried out in order to repair the North-East pier. During the English Civil War (1642-45) an attempt was made to undermine the tower directly above the Choir Stalls. While this had remained stable for some time, the strain was beginning to show and the tower was structurally unsound, leaving many in fear of its collapse. The tower was finally made sound when workmen, for four days and nights without rest, worked until the structure once again became safe.
In conclusion, I would highly recommend a visit to St. Albans Cathedral when you are next in Hertfordshire. Entrance to the Cathedral is free of charge, though a donation is appreciated. Also attached to the Cathedral is a Small but well stocked gift shop, a second hand book stall and a Cafe. You can visit the cathedral web site by clicking here.
Thanks for reading, and keep a look out for my next post soon!
Regards
English Gent.
